Europe's highest summit — a big glaciated volcano, climbed against a proper high-altitude weather window.
Tell us about your mountain experience and current fitness so we can discuss the demands of this route and suitable preparation for your trip.
An eight-day southern-route outline with acclimatisation, mountain hut stays and a weather reserve. Enquire about current trip availability before making travel arrangements.
Times and elevations are approximate. + means ascent and − means descent. Values marked net compare the start and end of the walking stage; they exclude the extra ups and downs along the trail. Travel by flight, road or lift is excluded from walking elevation figures. Flexible days are set by the leader.
Travel to the Baksan valley and meet the mountain team. The briefing covers equipment, the route and the plan for moving higher.
Reach the Baksan valley and meet the mountain team.
Use the remainder of the day to organise clothing and discuss questions before the acclimatisation programme begins.
Take an acclimatisation walk on suitable ground above the valley and return to the lower overnight base. The leader selects the route around conditions.
Take an acclimatisation walk on Cheget or Terskol terrain.
This first mountain day introduces the pace and provides time to review equipment before the higher snow terrain.
Use the available lift system and walk to the agreed mountain hut base, generally around Garabashi. Exact accommodation depends on reservations and the final route.
Move to the huts and complete a short outing above base.
Take a short walk higher if conditions permit, then return to rest before the next rotation.
Climb above the hut base on the southern slopes and return to the same overnight accommodation. The guide chooses an appropriate high point.
Make a higher rotation towards Pastukhov Rocks and return to base.
The rotation provides time on the mountain and an opportunity to review equipment and movement for the summit attempt.
Review the weather window and summit plan with your guide. A short preparation walk or skills review may be included while preserving time for rest.
Rest, check equipment and prepare for the summit window.
Prepare clothing and food for the overnight start. Any move of base is agreed around the final camp plan.
Start very early towards the saddle and the western summit at 5,642m. This is a long day at altitude on snow and glaciated terrain.
Attempt the west summit and return to the hut base.
The guide assesses conditions and the group’s progress before continuing. Return afterwards to the agreed base, allowing for the substantial descent.
On the standard programme, descend from the mountain huts to the valley using the lift system and local transport. If weather has moved the summit attempt to this reserve day, the summit-day ascent and descent figures apply instead.
Use the weather reserve if needed, otherwise return to the valley.
If the mountain stage is complete, descend to the valley, sort equipment and rest before departure.
Leave the valley according to your confirmed transfer arrangements. The exact finish depends on the mountain window.
Complete the transfer from the Baksan valley.
Contact us about current availability and practical travel arrangements before committing to flights or other bookings.
Quality costs more. The programme is planned around the group, the route and the conditions. Summit attempts remain subject to the leader’s assessment, and the final arrangements are confirmed before booking.
Subject to weather, mountain conditions and route availability.
Indicative guide price: approximately £2,100 per person for a shared expedition, excluding international flights. Please enquire for a confirmed SOOM quote tailored to your dates, group size and guiding arrangements.
Prices confirmed on enquiry. Published prices are indicative. Hut availability, routes, permits, transport and other associated costs can change after publication. Your written quote confirms the final price, itinerary, inclusions and exclusions for your dates and group.
The package outline below is tailored to this expedition. Your written SOOM quote confirms the inclusions, exclusions and accommodation for your departure.
The typical season is May–September, subject to conditions. We confirm travel feasibility, access and the guiding team before offering a departure.
Typical season: May–September, subject to conditions. Ask about availability and your confirmed quote.
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